We were the only diners as we entered Fusion on a recent Tuesday night. This newly created dining and entertainment spot is in the old Critells’a on Route 11 in North Syracuse. We were offered a choice of the formally set, but empty, dining room or a table in the bar and we opted for the latter. We were ushered into the burgundy and mahogany bar, brightly lit by a large picture window with an unattractive view. The waiter/ host/ bartender turned out to be the owner, Tony, whose fiancée handles the kitchen duties.
If you are strictly a roast and potatoes person, this may not be the place for you. But if you like to try old favorites in new clothes, we strongly recommend Fusion. What the menu lacks in size, it more than makes up for in interest.
We started with cocktails ($5.50 and $7) as we made our choices. 10 appetizers ($6-9) are offered but we ordered the $13 Fusion Tapaz Platter, a combo of appetizers. We were informed that the fried cauliflower and mozzarella sticks were not available and asked if we would take a substitution of a crab cake. That seemed like a fair trade, and we were richly rewarded with the best crab cake we have ever eaten up North. The accompanying onion rings were deliciously homemade with a hint of curry. Chicken and pork satays with three sauces rounded out the platter.
Nine entrees ($10-19) are offered including strip steak, two chicken dishes and two pork tenderloin, as well as three seafood entrees. He chose the daily special of shrimp in coconut curry sauce, and she ordered the special crab-stuffed salmon. Service here is leisurely because everything is cooked to order. Good food takes time. We ordered a beer ($4.25) and a glass of wine ($7). We looked at the wine list, which was very reasonable and more extensive than we had expected ($18-34). We passed the time in conversation with the owner who told us about the weekly entertainment including Salsa and West Coast Swing instruction and dancing. Daily lunch is also served.
Dinner platters arrived with nice portions of seafood accompanied by sautéed summer squash and Tuscan orzo and rice, which we’d chosen from the offered selection of carbohydrates. The salmon was perfectly cooked with a buttery crab and crumb filling. The veggies were a delicious accompaniment and pretty with their red pepper garnish. The shrimp were also perfectly cooked proving the culinary ability of the chef. The sauce was a wonderful smooth, creamy sweet coconut curry. No spice here, but an expert blend of Indonesian flavors. The only low point was the orzo. But when we commented on it, our host was quick to offer a bowl of white rice that he said was more fitting for the curry. Tony was absolutely right and the curry was finished in a hurry!
Desserts are homemade (as is everything but the orzo) and we selected a Pecan Raisin Tart ($4.99) and coffee ($2.29). “Wow,” is all we can say. This puff pastry shell filled with custard, raisins and nuts, accompanied by not-too-sweet whip cream was heaven-sent. Best dessert in town.
The bill came to a reasonable $79 before our $25 internet coupon.
Fusion is an undiscovered gem in North Syracuse. Don’t leave it that way. Run, don’t walk, for a leisurely, romantic dinner with an international flavor you won’t soon forget.
